Tag Archives: Fruit

Spring is in the Air

 Spring Blossoms

As I look out my back window at the quince and the peach beginning to bloom I am reminded of the wonders of fruit trees.

The weather is always a little unpredictable around this time of year, when the wind whips and the petals beak and swirl in whirlpools in the air. Poor weather conditions, during flowering are just one of the things that leads to poor fruit production. Excessive rainfall or over watering will produce weak sappy growth and little fruit, whilst a shortage of water will result in flower and/or fruit drop. Stress from high temperatures will lower flower development where as cool temperatures lowers the viability of the pollen. Cold, wet and windy conditions during bloom can reduce insect activity in the area.

Most fruiting plants have specific temperature ranges in which pollen viability and fertilization success are at a peak. Changes from these temperatures often results in low fruit yields. In temperate climates many fruit varieties require a certain amount of cold weather of the Upper Mountains in order to fruit normally. This requirement which varies with the cultivar is referred to as chill hours being accumulated cold-season hours below 7°C. For more on chill hours check out our previous post The Chilling Facts of Life

You may notice trees in blossom buzzing with bees at the moment, that’s our glorious pollinators are getting busy as the weather warms up. Pollination is a key concept in fruit production and consequently must be understood in order to maximize productivity and yield. Only pollinated flowers can bear fruit. And in the case on dioecious species (6% of plants only) like kiwi fruit – then only female plants bear fruit. To further complicate things some fruit trees like apple trees are cross-pollinators, this means they are incompatible with their own pollen. So generally speaking they require pollen from another apple of a different variety (including crab apples) in order to produce fruit. In a cross-pollinated system, honeybees, wasps and other pollinators allow the transfer of pollen from one plant to another as they drop a little pollen collecting from plant to plant.

honeybee with a load of pollen

For two such plants to successfully pollinate each other not only does their pollen have to be compatible but they have to be producing the pollen at the same time, If there is no source of pollen within the optional distance and flowering at the same time, pollination will not take place and fruits will not form. Plums and pears are cross pollinators too. Talk to your neighbours about what fruit trees they have already or are thinking about  buying, if they’re within 500m you can cross pollinate your trees with theirs. If neither you nor your neighbours have any compatible trees nearby, it is possible for branches with blossoms to be brought in from a different area and placed in drums of water close to the tree requiring pollination.

Self-pollinating fruit trees include apricot, nectarine, peach, sour cherry as well as currant, gooseberry, blueberry, strawberry and raspberry plants. They do not require an outside pollen source, although they often seem to produce better if there is one. I find the term ‘self pollinating’ a bit misleading, we still need our insects friends to spread the pollen from flower to flower, and trees will often be more produce more prolifically if compatible cross pollinating plants are in the vicinity.

Pears are similar to apples, with the notable exception that pear blossoms are much less attractive to bees, due to lower sugar content than apple or contemporaneous wildflower  nectar. To make up for thiees hives are often introduced in commercial enterprises.

Don’t worry too much if you tree doesn’t produce fruit every single year. Talk to local fruit growers about any regular (or irregular) fruiting patterns they’ve observed, local knowledge can help demystify the variations in our production cycles, the links between weather and other environmental patterns are not always obvious.  Some trees only flower every other year, this is known as alternate flowering. It’s especially common in apple and crabapple trees. Some say that thinning excess fruits in an “on” (flowering) year will help to conserve the plant’s resources and reduce the occurrence of subsequent “off” years.

While there are reports of 200 year old apple trees still going strong, it’s not uncommon to find that older trees decline in fruit production. If you inherit a slightly sad or neglected old fruit tree, never fear, a good pruning & a little TLC  can make a big difference.

Make friends with the Heritage Apple trees at Blue Mountains Organic Community Gardens, which we’ll be visiting as part of our upcoming Spring PDC.

Thanks for jnyemb and daveeza on flickr for sumptuous Spring pix and info from:

Dan & Dan Forest Services Yass NSW- www.dananddan.com.au

EarthWood – Our Fruit -users.netconnect.com.au

(I recommend a good old wassail around any fruit trees,  all that good cheer certainly can’t do any harm)

Sue’s August Planting Guide

As the clock ticks over tonight July ends, and we’re looking forward to slightly longer and on average a slither slightly higher thermometer reading of ‘warmer’ days in our Cool Mountainous climate of Wentworth Falls and Upwards. It is just about the last chance for the year to buy bare rooted fruit trees, gooseberries, currants, grape vines. Or propagate a bagful of cool climate berry varieties at Mt Tomah this Sunday with the Fruit and Nut Tree Network (see upcoming events)

I’m moving some of my plants around, I want to create more layers under my fruit trees to create a food forest. And I’m incorporating one of Bill Mollison’s suggestions (one of the co-originators of Permaculture); that you plant a grape near a fig tree and “lead your grape into the fig and then stop pruning it for good, because the grape reaches the crown of the fig and is wind pruned, and you just forget pruning it anymore.” Entwined they help camouflage each other from the birds and possums as well. It had crossed my mind that a passionfruit might work the same but then I looked at some vines growing in an orchard at Mt Tomah. The passionfruit has total engulfed the fruit tree completely, no thanks!

I’m dreaming too of seedlings, of cauliflower, collards, kale, mustard greens, peas, salad greens like mizuna, mitsuba, spinach, and seed potatoes of all kinds. You might think about perennial underplantings too, like rhubarb and asparagus crowns, artichoke suckers, these will give you wonderful spring provisions the following year when other foods are still getting up and going.
Arkansas Traveler, Day 12

Lower down the hill in the more Temperate climate of
 Hazelbrook and below, you  you still might get away with planting a fruit tree or vine either bare rooted or evergreen. Because of the warmer temperature for the veggie patch I would suggest seeds or seedlings of baby carrots, beetroot, lettuce, parsnip, peas, radish, swede, turnips, celery, celeriac, leek, lettuce, onions, mizuna, mitsuba, seed potatoes, rocket, silverbeet, spinach. You might even plant the seeds of early tomatoes, zucchini, melons and pumpkins in pots on a sunny windowsill to give them a head start. Head to the Food Co-op in Katoomba where a new batch of Greenpatch seeds has arrived just in time.

*My apologies to the town of Bullaburra; not only doesn’t it have shops but now I’ve wiped it off the map as far as this planting guide goes.

Never mind you’ve still got a few hours to book in at early bird prices for our upcoming Permaculture Design Certificate!

http://www.permaculture.net/~EPTA/Hemenway.htm

www.jackiefrench.com/cal.html

The Chilling Facts of Life

Oops! I’ve just put in an order to buy a couple more of these fruit trees, there’s barely space left but I just can’t help myself. If you’re considering buying any bare root fruit or nut tree this winter, it’s worth taking a good look at the needs of the tree first. Not only is it important for a fruit tree to get sunlight, air and water, many of the trees we rely on for fruit and nuts rely on a good deep winter dormancy to produce fruit the following Summer.
Crabapples on Ice

Both pome fruit trees (with a core and pips like apples & pears) and stone fruits (cherries, peaches, nectarines, apricots plums etc) need cold hours to stimulate the massive phsyiological changes these trees undertake in the noble pursuit of fruit production. Pome fruit especially rely on a good long chill, and there are also berry plants which also need the cold including raspberries & blueberries. It’s amazing to think that the productivity is directly brought about by that winter chill. And this is one of those rare occasions when us cold climate dwellers get to be the envy of people living in the tropical, sub-tropical and even the warmer temperate areas. You’ll see in fruit tree suppliers’ catalogues like Woodbridge, Daleys or Diggers that different species and cultivars and their rootstocks are variously described as having Low, Medium or High Chill requirements which vary from species to species.  Traditional apple varieties have a minimum chill requirement of about 1000 hours, that’s a ‘high chill’ requirement for an apple tree. Use this ready reckoner to estimate the chill hours for your area, based on the average temperature of your coldest month of the year.

Using this method, Katoomba comes in with an average 1200 chill hours whilst Springwood’s milder climate gets around 1100 chill hours.

It’s important also to consider how variable the seasonal conditions are too, particularly if you’re aiming to provide for your fruit needs from your own trees. Too few or too many chill hours can interfere with a tree’s ability to fruit, so look at the maximum and minimum chill hours as well as the average to understand the range of winter your area has historically experienced.

Our climate is changing, and that’s another factor to take into account in a long term fruit production strategy. In this visualisation of Sydney’s seasonal temperatures, you can clearly see that the lower temperatures shown in dark blue decreasing over time, indicating milder winters, with less chill hours.

 The band of blue is also narrowing as it fades meaning winter is also getting shorter.  In the upper mountains its a familiar story, the snows don’t come down in big drifts like they used to. In Katoomba if the temperature rises as predicted, we’ll see an increase in temperature by 2 °C on average over the year, which will bring Katoomba chill hours down to about 1000. That will knock off very few varieties out of production. In Springwood, which is currently marginal for high chill requirement fruits, its a different story. That 2° C increase in Springwood would drop their chill hours well below into 900 , so they’ll either have to get a bit nifty with engineering cooler microclimates around their existing chill requiring trees or perhaps get more familiar with trees traditionally grown at latitudes nearer the tropics.

Find out more about trees, climates and resilient strategies for food production with Katoomba Street Permaculture’s permaculture design certificate course this Spring.

Words by Sue Girard & Kat Szuminska [CC-BY-SA 3.0]

Crabapple photo by Tatania12:flickr [CC BY 2.0]

Awesome Seasonal Temperature Visualisation by Hatchersan @markact

Illustration Resources graph courtesy of http://www.newcrops.uq.edu.au/acotanc/papers/campbel1

More information about growing fruit trees (especially apples)

South east Producers Association (SEPA) http://www.davewilson.com/homegrown/gardencompass/gc14_jan_07.html http://www.orangepippintrees.com/articles/fruit-tree-minimum-chill-requirement

http://hydrology1.nmsu.edu/nmcrops/Trees/apples/ http://www.aussieapples.com.au/ http://www.motherearthnews.com/blogs/blog.aspx?blogid=2147484355

pruning heritage trees

Pruning

This weekend join me and Sue, Brian and Wayne at the community gardens, and learn first hand from experienced orchardists how to prune, and help lick our heritage fruit trees into shape. Our heritage apple walk was planted out in the mid 90’s, soon accompanied by quinces cherries and plums, you wont find these varieties in the shops so help keep this precious resource of cool climate fruits healthy for future generations to enjoy.  Winter is a great time to take stock of trees, look at their shape and how the branches form and relate to one another. Being deciduous the branches are bereft of leaves clearly revealing their structure. Come along, learn a new skill, or flex your pruning muscles, and help these fabulous fruit trees be productive and bear fruit for the years to come.  Find out more at bmfruitandnuttreenetwork.blogspot.com

photo credit Pictoscribe on flickr